Close Animal Encounters

Most Big 5 safari experiences require you to drive out and find the animals or birds you want to see—but what if they came to you?

The Etali Waterhole

Nestled in the heart of the Madikwe Game Reserve, the Etali Waterhole is a hotspot for animal encounters. It’s also the focal point of Etali’s three outdoor dining areas, so you can enjoy waterhole viewing whilst eating the delicious meals prepared by our chefs.

Etali’s waterhole attracts a variety of wildlife, providing guests with a unique opportunity to witness nature’s drama unfold right from the comfort of the lodge. Because the waterhole is at Etali, it is exclusive—only Etali guests can experience it.

Experience unparalleled wildlife viewing at the Etali waterhole.

Our guests enjoy watching wildlife coming for a drink. The constant movement of animals makes the waterhole an ideal spot for photography and wildlife viewing in Madikwe.

The “Big Five”—elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo and leopard—regularly visit Etali’s waterhole.

Elephants usually visit our waterhole during the day. Especially during the dry season, the various elephant herds often queue up to drink! There are the young elephants who don’t know how to use their trunk to drink yet—so they plunge their heads into the water. There are the young bull elephants who don’t want to share the waterhole with any other animals, and busy themselves chasing other species away. There are the big, old, wise bulls who lumber up to the waterhole and take long drinks. You can sit and watch elephants all day (we do!).

Both white and black rhinos often visit the waterhole. You’ll find white rhinos at any time of the day. The more elusive black rhinos usually visit later at night—guests will sometimes see them during dinner. Madikwe’s rhinos are still fully horned, thanks to the reserve’s extremely dedicated anti-poaching efforts. They are a sight to see.

Lions are the next most common visitor. Male lions patrol their territories and you’ll wake up every few days to the sound of them calling their prides. (This is THE best alarm clock.) They will often come to drink at the waterhole whilst they’re in the area, usually at dawn or dusk. When lions make a kill in the vicinity, they usually visit Etali’s waterhole for a long drink.

Buffaloes are also common visitors to the waterhole. Sometimes the visitor is a “dagga boy”—an old buffalo who does not travel with his herd any longer. Other times, the entire herd will arrive.

When they do, they all get into the waterhole, filling it completely with buffaloes. This phenomenon often occurs at night, usually after the game drives return after the afternoon safari—perfectly timed to be viewed by our guests enjoying dinner.

Leopards are regular visitors to the waterhole as well, but they often come late at night when everyone is sleeping. With a little luck, you’ll see a leopard at the waterhole at dusk or during dinner.

Although the Big 5 are the most well-known African wildlife species, many other animals visit Etali’s waterhole. We often see cheetahs, African wild dogs, spotted hyenas, brown hyenas, and black-backed jackals coming for a drink. Giraffes are regular visitors. Herds of zebras often come—they, like buffalos, like to stand in the water. Blue wildebeest come. Lots of warthogs, especially with their young ones. There are also herds of kudus and impalas. Etali’s resident klipspringers also use the waterhole. Troops of Chacma baboons will come to drink and amuse guests with their antics.

The waterhole is a great place for birdwatching

Just a few examples—blacksmith lapwings often make their nests on the ground near the waterhole, and then the parents spend all the time flying and squawking to make sure animals don’t step on their eggs.

Double-banded sandgrouse come each evening at dusk, and you can hear their calls. (Speaking of sandgrouse—for bird lovers, Madikwe is also home to the special yellow-throated sandgrouse, which we often see on game drive on our black clay soils.)

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Etali’s dining areas are designed for waterhole viewing

Etali’s guests enjoy wildlife viewing in Madikwe from the lodge itself. Picture having a morning coffee (tip: add the Amarula!) sitting in the Boma, watching wildlife at eye level. Or maybe you’d like an afternoon gin & tonic from the main lodge deck whilst watching animals? Especially during dry season, guests sometimes skip a few game drives and watch the animals visiting the waterhole from the lodge.

Etali offers three spaces for dining at the lodge, all of which overlook the waterhole:

The first is our Main Deck, which is about 4 metres high and overlooks the waterhole.
The waterhole is centre stage and you have an elevated view of all of the wildlife action.

The second dining space is Phomolo (“place of rest” in Tswana, the local language). This is our mezzanine deck tucked under a canopy of tamboti trees in front of the waterhole. It’s a small deck for a small group, giving a different waterhole perspective.

The third dining area is Boma, which is our ground-level area next to the waterhole. Dining at Boma allows you to experience being at the same level as the wildlife at the waterhole. Imagine sitting under the stars during our Boma dinners near wildlife.

Guests often relax in our dining areas at any time of day to get some amazing photos and videos. The different heights of the Main Deck, Phomolo and Boma lend themselves to different photographic compositions. These areas also face west, providing a perfect view of stunning African sunsets.

The Etali Waterhole is most active during Madikwe’s dry season

There are good reasons why there is so much activity at Etali’s waterhole. It is the first permanent source of water for animals moving from the northeastern part of Madikwe to other areas of the reserve. In addition, when Etali owner Koos Potgieter built the lodge from scratch 20 years ago, he situated it on an existing game path created by animals.

Although the waterhole is busy year-round, it is at its busiest during the dry season: the months of June, July, August, September and into October.

These are great months to visit Madikwe. You experience cold mornings and evenings, where you’re wrapped up in a fleece with a hot water bottle on game drive. You experience that wonderful feeling of warming up—during the morning game drive tea/coffee stop, standing in the sun, or returning from the evening game drive to a roaring fire at the lodge.

During the dry season, many of the dams and pans in the reserve’s 75 000 hectares dry up. However, the animals do not run out of water—they simply visit the waterholes at the lodges in Madikwe more often. Because of Etali’s location in Madikwe, our waterhole gives our guests great sightings.

Etali Waterhole Stories

Ask any of Etali’s staff about their favourite waterhole sighting! Maybe it will be the New Year’s Eve event where all of the Big Five species visited the waterhole during dinner. Or the elephant that gave birth at the waterhole during lockdown. Or the African wild dogs that made an impala kill at the waterhole. Or maybe the high-pitched squeaking noises of a baby rhino communicating with mom. Or maybe the first sighting of the 3 lion cubs that were born on the small hill across the way from the lodge.

The Etali Waterhole is special.